PARALLEL
FALL / WINTER 2017
The Fall/Winter 2017 collection is inspired by the shifting roles of women in the early 1900‘s, from playing a more domestic role to being providers of their families and, more generally, more influential members of society. Women were found dressed like the popularly adorned Gibson Girls; very feminine, poised and exaggerated. However, these changes affected their way of dress, gradually changing with the corresponding shift in their socioeconomic roles. It all began at the start of the World War I when men were forced to go to war leaving women behind to take on more prominent positions: womenswear, in turn, transformed from an ultra ladylike Gibson girls wardrobe into a more practical and therefore, more masculine aesthetic. This ’Parallel‘ collection is a representation of the juxtaposition between the feminine and the masculine and how these roles have merged together, becoming increasingly blurred in the modern age.
This transition of feminine versus masculine is portrayed across the collection through the evolution of silhouettes and the use of contrasting fabrics. It begins with more feminine silhouettes contrasted with menswear fabric and transitions into traditional masculine silhouettes with feminine elements marked by the lace high-neck, ruffled cuffs, lace panels and pleated sleeves. Removable features were included to highlight functionality, improve practicality and provide an element of versatility. This season‘s silhouettes range from the typical feminine fitted box pleat blazer to the ultimate classic menswear double-breasted blazer
The fabrics used throughout the collection are a combination of traditional Saville Row soft wool-twill made in the heart of England at Dugsdale Brothers; a company dating back to the early 1800s, rich supple velvet, and structured jacquard juxtaposed with flow-y pleated chiffon and complemented with varieties of graceful lace including guipure. The color palette is an array of rich dark tones consisting of opulent burgundy, ebony blacks, vivid navy, charcoal grays and silver metallic hues.
As men and women‘s role continues to progress and the fault lines of gender continue to be challenged, the exploration of the “parallel” trajectory in dress style will undoubtedly evolve.
